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RE: Buying Used Class C
Wow, this is an open ended question.. how big is your checkbook? As mentioned, metal frame work is best, but sometimes hard to find. No glass in the cab over is my vote, one piece domed roof (so water rolls off of it when parked), leveling jacks (I like BigFoot), EFI with overdrive, 460 or V10 w/ E4OD tranny is a work horse), no dinnette behind drivers seat so you can recline it a little bit rolling down the road, LARGE exterior storage doors, 15k a/c, working dash a/c, 5k gen, I'm not a fan of slide-outs, I also vote for crank out louvered windows over sliders (you can keep them open slightly in the rain), I prefer metal siding, largest wheels and tires you can get, I'd probably stick w/ gas over disiel, tall enough shower to stand up in comfortably, walk around bed in the back, I'd rather have couches, chairs and tables and no dinette, air ride suspension. I've grown to like Itasca and Tioga but in all reality, all brands are pretty good and they all have their +/-'s. I LOVE Class C's... you're always in the shade driving, easy to drive and any garage will work on them because they're a van; Even though a class A has the same kind of drivetrain, some just get "scared" of them... Also, I'd recommend keeping it at 31' or it'll start to ride rough... also, TEST DRIVE IT...some Ford chassis (like mine), just seem to hit hard on bumps, etc., I wish I had air ride suspension.
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KEBrown
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07/18/08 10:17am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Air Compressors
Aren't you filling up your tires before you leave? Do they lose that much pressure "on the road" that you really need a compressor? That being said, I carry a little pancake compressor from HFreight; the cheapest one they had; I have used it ONCE for the tires... it has enough volume to get the job done eventually but not enough to spin off torqued lug nuts or reinstall to proper torque. It was the same price as a 12vt compressor, but it works 100% better in my opinion. If you want to increase volume signifigantly; replace your front or rear bumper with 3/16" thick by 6" round steel tubing with domed end caps welded on, hook your compressor to that... gives you about 20 gallons of volume at 140psi. Filled up, its enough to air up 1 tire from 0 to 80psi without hooking up the compressor. If I have a leak I just care about putting enough in to "get me to help" where I get the tire fixed.
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KEBrown
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07/18/08 10:01am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Newbie where are the water drains?
Waterheater bypass valves are typically on the back side of the waterheater itself; so they'll most likely be under your couch or cabinet or whever your waterheater is installed. Also, complete systems drains are usually found on the floor, just after the fresh water tank but before the pump, two after the pump and usally two at every faucet, shower, etc..one each for hot and cold water. You also have a complete hot water heater drain plug outside on the front of the water heater; usually a 1/2" plastic plug. Hope this helps.
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KEBrown
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07/18/08 09:40am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: cat-converter
I just went to an exhaust shop; that's ALL they do is exhaust. The drilled about a 1/4" hole just before the catcon and another just after the catcon. They then install a pressure hose gage and rev up the motor (better to be done when the engine is hot). They take pressure before and after the catcon. They stated 1/2# was acceptable and mine was 12#s. After they took it off all the guts just fell out of it and I also had some in the muffler and tail pipe. We were able to clean out the muffler and tail pipe and just install the new catcon. It only took them about 10-15 min to check it and about another hour to clean out the muffler/tailpipe and install the new catcon... WORLD OF DIFFERENCE. Before I had horrible power, and I was getting down to 3.5-4MPG...now I have tons of power and I'm back up to 9 MPG... isn't that funny, I make it sound like 9 MPG is just AWESOME :)... well, considering all the variables, I'm very happy with 9.
FYI: while you're there, the O2 sensor is just in front of the catcon... replace it...the largest reason catcos fail is to much unburnt fuel; well, the O2 sensor tells the "computer" how much fuel to send. They're readily available, Bosch is the leading maker and every parts store will have them for around $60 and they're not hard to replace.
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KEBrown
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07/18/08 09:35am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: What is the best way to raise rear of a Class C ?
New springs can be pricey; airbags are nice, but again, can be pricey. I added 1" blocks under the springs and on-top of the axle; gave about 2.5" lift at the hitch and it didn't effect the ride at all and cost me $120 at our axle and spring shop.
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KEBrown
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07/18/08 07:26am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: cat-converter
I just had this problem. You can have an exhaust pressure test done (pre cat and post cat) for about $20 and it takes about 10 min. 1/2 pound is acceptable... mine had 12. Put on the NEW cat and WOW; I'm getting better fuel economy and all power is restored. Also, after the catcon, upgrading to a 3" tailpipe/muffler combo will help too. Don't cut out the cat and put in a cheater tube; eventually the "global warming" people are going to require vehicle emission test in all states and you'll have to put it back on anyway. Also, a simple tune-up wouldn't hurt... plugs, wires, cap, rotor, filters, O2 sensor...
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KEBrown
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07/18/08 07:22am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Continual Loss of Power
Thanks ya'll. Fuel filters, plugs, wires, cap, rotor and air filter all changed; and I ran some BG44K injector cleaner in it through the fuel rail; so should be all clean now, but I did not check the fuel "pressure".
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KEBrown
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07/18/08 07:01am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Ford 460 Engine
Mine has an oil cooler w/ remote filter and I don't recal anything there that would cause any trouble except maybe a kinked line or clogged cooler itself; but I would think that to be pretty rare. In all honesty, it might be worth a shot to change the oil to 10w30 w/o any additives and take another reading...chaning the oil would only cost you about $20, at least it'd rule that out on the cheap. Does one line to the oil cooler get hot and the other feel less hot - it should.
Also, are you trusting your dash gage? I tap a gage into the line itself. Mine works by removing the oil filter, adding the adapter plate and hooking the hose to it; that's the most accurate reading. I bet you someone like Orileys, etc. might even rent the gage setup; if not, a shop wouldn't chage more than a 1/2 hour to do it.
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KEBrown
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07/15/08 10:34am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Ford 460 Engine
Good luck; just be 100% POSITIVE they prime the new oil pump. I've known more than one mechanic who didn't prime the pump or didn't prime it good enough; which thus resulted in a new engine - at the installers expense of couse. Your JD chassis is better than my E350 chassis...there is to much stuff to get out of the way on mine. Also, the rear main could easily be changed when you drop the pan, but it is a 2 piece seal.
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KEBrown
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07/15/08 10:26am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Ford 460 Engine
Seems like pretty heavy oil to me, but that's just one mans opinion. 10w30 would be factory specs most likely per your owners manual. 10w30 should be good for anything from 32 degrees and up outside air temp.
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KEBrown
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07/15/08 10:12am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Ford 460 Engine
50 psi is excellent... 20 at idle, this is enough, could simply be a dirty screen, pick-up tube or oil pump. You aren't running to heavy of oil are you... I run 10w30 in mine. I can tell you, dropping the pan and cleaning the screen, pick up tube and a new pump can easily run you $800 on a 460, but thats a long way from $7000 for R&R of a new Jasper engine. Did you have bad compression to begin with? Why did you have the heads done? Were they bored out, new rings, etc. If the top 1/2 the motor was off I hope they put in a new cam for you.
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KEBrown
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07/15/08 10:01am |
Tech Issues
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RE: gfci tripping from outside plug
Ditto... replace the outlet, they're cheap.
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KEBrown
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07/15/08 09:41am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Wire Gauge
City did not have to do an inspection but code does allow up to 4 wires of #6 in 1" conduit. I only did white/black/green because I figured most anyone would be familiar w/ White being neutral, black being hot and green being ground.
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KEBrown
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07/15/08 09:36am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Continual Loss of Power
Well, when the catconverter when out it blew the guts and clogged up some of the muffler; but I got that and the tail pipe all cleaned out... Now, I'm wondering if I need to have a fuel pressure check done or checking of the air/fuel mixture, etc. to make sure it doesn't happen again. I did put on a new oxygen sensor so the computer might not allow me to do anything...advise?
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KEBrown
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07/15/08 09:31am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Hot water "Hum" at faucet?
Odd; I'd say change your filter screen, but if it's happening at both faucets I doubt that's it. I would change the regulator, Walmart, $10. Is there air in your hot water tank? Open up the hot water drain and make sure it's full of water and that all your bypass valves, etc, are opened up.
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KEBrown
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07/15/08 08:49am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Generator oil type?
A Marquis is not an old unit; and FYI: it is an EXCELLENT unit.. I have one and it's VERY VERY quiet; love it. I run straight 30 weight, non detergent Valvoline in mine.
Heres the operators manual:
http://www.cumminsonan.com/www/pdf/manuals/983-0101B.pdf
Per the manual:
32 degrees and higher = 30wt.
10-100 degrees = 15w40
0-80 degrees = 10w30 or 10w40
minus20-50 degrees = 5w30
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KEBrown
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07/15/08 08:16am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Wire Gauge
I ran #6 THNN in 1" plastic conduit with a breaker box and a switch at the front of the line. Total cost was about $200 + $30 trencher rental. Although it's on a 30 amp service the wire will easily handle 60 amp; that way if I ever upgrade to a 50 amp unit or add another a/c, etc, I've got the power, etc.
The entire 500' spool of wire at HD was $180, plus breaker, switch, etc. Just buy a 4 pack of multi colored electric tape to mark your wires white, green and black.
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KEBrown
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07/15/08 07:24am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Old Dometic fridge problem with gas operation
Dirty flue?
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KEBrown
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07/15/08 07:17am |
Tech Issues
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RE: generator exhaust
You can buy true exhaust tubes (flexible) at most automotive stores; they're usually 6-10' long.
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KEBrown
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07/15/08 07:17am |
Tech Issues
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Continual Loss of Power
Drove 100-200 miles and the coach just kept slowing down and was getting about 3.5 MPG... :(. I thought it was a slipping tranny or just worn cap/rotor, wires, plugs, etc. so I changed all that - no difference. Then someone said to clean the fuel injectors and change the oxygen sensor - no difference. Then someone said check the back pressure on the catalytic converter; 1/2 pound is acceptable. The pressure on mine was 12# pre catconverter and 10# after the catconverter; changed it out and it runs like a brand new unit. More power, 8-9 MPG and it will actaully gain speed going up a hill again... WOW. The next addition might be a 3" muffler to get even better flow. So...if you have a power problem, check your back pressure; it took about 10 min. to check it and it's best if done when the engine is hot; but be forewarned, they're not what I call "cheap", but considering all power is restored I was glad it only cost $650 and I was up and running in about 2 hours.
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KEBrown
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07/15/08 07:02am |
Tech Issues
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